Gambia: Banjul

 March 19, 2023, Banjul, Gambia (or The Gambia)

We had to get up at 6 am to grab breakfast, pick up tour tickets at 7:15 am and leave at 7:30 am. We are not early birds. Neither of us slept well, but since we were taking a bus to Makasutu (over an hour and a half from Banjul), we could sleep on the bus. When we got outside, the back of a large open-air truck with a loose lattice of palm branches overhead was waiting for us. I’d forgotten about this part. We climbed a ladder up the side along with 19 other people. While the seats were surprisingly comfortable, we would not be sleeping. Usually getting on last means sitting in the back, but in this case we had great seats in the front of the truck bed.

See ladder—that’s how we got into this truck!

View into the truck we rode to Makasutu.

Banjul, the capital of Gambia, is on an island at the mouth of the Gambia River, and fairly quickly we crossed the bridge onto mainland of Gambia. Our tour guide, Jerreh, spoke excellent English. The Gambia was a British Colony for a long time, so English is the official language. There are nine indigenous languages, with Mandingo in second place to English. 

Poverty is apparent everywhere. However, Gambia’s economy is steadily improving. Extended families live in humble compounds, of which we saw many especially as we passed through Sarekunda, the largest city in Gambia. Most signage was in English, which was a mental vacation after being in so many Spanish and Portuguese-speaking places. Seemed odd, but no translation needed.

Group of girls waving as we passed by the family compound

Large gate leaving Banjul

Our destination was the Makasutu Eco Park, and our arrival there included driving through many trees—mango, cashew, and others with overhanging branches. Our open-air truck bed’s posts smacked into leaves, flowers, cashew nuts, mangos and other vegetation which rained down on us. Some people were slapped by branches as we sped through. At one point the  truck had to stop—our paltry lattice cover was being swept off by the overhead branches. 

After reinstalling our overhead shade, we eventually arrived at Baobob Camp in the palm forest. There were open air structures with tables and chairs, and we were treated to our choice of tea or coffee (powdered).The ship personnel had advised us to only drink bottled water, but this water was boiled. I had hot tea with a cube of sugar. Meantime, Charlie was admiring the musicianship of the 7-piece all-acoustic band.

There was a gigantic baobob tree behind the band, which had a xylophone (with gourds tied underneath) and rhythm instruments. The instruments were all hand made by the musicians themselves, and I don’t think I’ve seen any exactly like them before. They all spoke English. Charlie was invited to sit in with them on one of the rhythm instruments for a song or two. It was an enjoyable interlude. 

Baobob tree. I’m standing on the right side.

When we were done with our beverages, we set off through the forest with our guide. The ground was sandy,  and we could see fairly large holes in the sand that were made by crabs. No sign of crabs at this time of day. There were many huge termite mounds. 

Large termite mound

Our guide explained that traditionally villages were built near baobob or mahogany trees because there have strong, hard wood. There are only 2 mahogany trees left in the park because others were cut down to make furniture before the area became protected. 

Gambia has no problem with water as it is often found just a meter or so below ground.

Our destination was called Base Camp, and the plan was to take canoes from here up the Bolong, or tributary to the Gambia River. There was a tall structure that we could climb up 3 stories on rusted out stairs (we went up one floor, keeping out feet on the inner part of the spiral staircase). Baboon calls could be heard in the distance, and we were told not to be alarmed when the baboons arrived. We had to wait until the canoes came back with the previous group, and a couple of people wandered into the forest and saw baboons.

The boats were shallow canoes that held about 7 people each. Our group was carried amidst the mangroves in 3 canoes. It was high tide so we didn’t see them, but the mangroves roots are habitat for oysters. We saw shore birds, no alligators. This part of the river is part fresh, part salt water due to proximity to the mouth of the Gambia River. We cruised for awhile, got out and began another hike through the forest back to Baobob Camp. Once back there, we had a delicious lunch of potatoes, rice, chicken and vegetables (including small, round green chilis with a kick). Charlie saw a monkey who had snuck in for scraps and got more baboon pictures, then we climbed back into our truck for the hour and. Half drive back to Banjul. 

Mending fishing nets

Monkey looking for food

Mom Baboon with baby.

We arrived back to the ship late, but so did other tour buses. Besides, as long as it’s a ship-sponsored tour, they can’t very well leave you behind.