Thailand: Bangkok

Thursday, June 1, 2023, Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok is Thailand’s capital and trade center. It’s on the Chao Phraya River (“mother of all rivers”). Sailing up the river from the Gulf of Thailand took awhile.  We passed many commercial docks mixed with businesses, housing, and temples. We took it all in from the veranda.

Our ship was scheduled to dock at the Khlong Toei Pier, an international small-ship container port on the east side of the river. It’s about 8-1/2 miles from downtown Bangkok, a half-hour drive. We were lucky—larger ships dock 2 hours away. 

The ship arrived at the pier about 2 pm. Finally off the ship, chaos ensued. There were 2 free shuttle buses, one going to the “big mall” and one to the “little mall.” Also, too many people, and a worse than usual language barrier. Our plan was to take the shuttle to the “little mall,” then a taxi to the nearest water taxi dock, then explore from there.

The next thing we knew we were on the wrong bus—a 30-minute ride—headed to the “big mall.” They handed out maps on the bus in both English and Thai script (a version of Sanskrit). The “big mall” was in the center of downtown Bangkok. A taxi from there would be cheaper! Traffic on our bus ride to the mall was insane.

It turned out the “big mall” was called Central Mall. It had an information desk with someone who spoke excellent English. We explained what we wanted to do, and she encouraged us to walk to the nearest BTS Sky Train station (a 5-minute walk) and take the  Sky Train to a station within walking distance to a water taxi. She said it would be much quicker than trying to hail a taxi with the crush of tourists that had just arrived.

She was right. After navigating the unfamiliar terrain into the elevated train station, we had just enough Thai baht to buy two tickets on the Saphan-Taksin line. They didn’t take credit cards or US dollars. We managed to find the correct platform (with help) and boarded the next train. It was packed—mostly with young people looking at their phones. We were a little worried about missing our stop. Charlie noticed a young woman following the route on her phone. When I asked her about it she showed me the app. It was more of a gesturing conversation (neither of us spoke the others’ language). I managed to download the app while holding on to the pole;  problem solved. 

Navigating the Sky Train station

On the Sky Train

We got off at our stop and headed toward the river to find the Saphin Taksin boat pier.  Somewhat confusing, the water taxi was next to a tour boat company. We sorted it out,  bought tickets, and boarded the water taxi.

Charlie on top deck of the water taxi.

By now there wasn’t enough time to visit the Grand Palace, so we got off at Wat Arun, a 16th century Buddhist temple also known as the Temple of Dawn. Its gorgeous spire rises 230 feet and is decorated with intricate patterns of small  pieces of colored glass and Chinese porcelain. It was annual Buddha Day, which meant there were many young Thai women and men in traditional garb being photographed, the occasional Monks, in addition to the tourists.

Photo op for many young lovelies

Thai man in traditional garb

There was a barricade behind us so no, we didn’t climb it.

Monks

We took a couple more water taxi rides, and in our explorations found this market in the lively Silom area. It had a variety of stalls, food, art, and fashion.

It was my birthday. We hadn’t decided on a restaurant, and were in the general vicinity of the very posh Oriental Hotel. We started asking shop owners, where is the best place to eat in the neighborhood? Massage therapists taking a break, a money-changer behind his counter, a taxi driver. I thought they would recommend one of the expensive hotels nearby. They all said the same thing: Jack’s Bar just down the street.

Jack’s Bar was not your ordinary dive. It was an extraordinary dive right on the riverfront in downtown Bangkok. The food: excellent; the ambiance: dive bar, the price: dirt cheap. Ya was our server. She spoke English & knew her stuff. A perfect, quirky birthday dinner for me.

The kitchen at Jack’s Bar

Charlie and Ya

The “Broccoli Revolution” restaurant was half a block away. Despite the name, in certain circles it’s known for its desserts. They had 2 pieces of chocolate cake with orange-vanilla frosting left. Rich and delicious!

Birthday cake!

After birthday cake, we stepped out into the night. We’d been advised to never take a taxi that’s parked in Bangkok—they charge more. We saw a taxi slowly driving down the street and hailed it to take us back to Central Market Mall. We might get there in time to catch the second-to-the-last free shuttle bus. Traffic was insane. The taxi driver dropped us at the mall, but it was the wrong side. We ran for it—Charlie way ahead of me—to the shuttle bus drop off/pickup point. No shuttle bus. Then we spotted it at the stoplight. Charlie ran in front of the bus as the driver waited for the light to change. The bus door finally opened and we hopped on. I fell asleep on the way back.

Once back on board we opened the door to our small cabin to find the birthday fairies (aka room stewards) had transformed our room with balloons and a “happy birthday” towel monkey hanging from our ceiling.

Back in our ship cabin

Friday, June 2, 2023, Bangkok, Thailand

We were out early, determined to see the Emerald Buddha at the Grand Palace in the historical center of Bangkok—closing at noon today instead of the usual 5 pm. For us, early is 9 am. 

We took the free shuttle to the nearby “little mall.” Our plan was to walk to the nearest Sky Train station, about a 20-minute walk. It was hot. As we were walking, Charlie hailed a passing tuk-tuk to avoid a long walk in the heat. A short Sky Train ride and we were at the water taxi.

Arriving at the pier for the Grand Palace, sea of humanity greeted us. Some offering services, others, like us, looking for the Grand Palace. One man advised me to watch out for pickpockets. I was told it is often the pickpockets that say that, knowing you’ll put your hand where your wallet is to check it. My purse was zipped up. I wasn’t too worried. 

We spotted two couples we knew who had done better research than us and seemed to know where they were going. We tagged along. The six of us found the Grand Palace ticket counter, not too far away, and we bought tickets (free to Thai people). 

Once inside the gate, there were uniformed guards with guns. Part of guard duty is apparently wardrobe scrutiny. The mens’ shorts didn’t cover their knees, no entrance for them. They were directed to a small adjacent shop selling elephant pants for $6. Charlie opted for a tasteful grey-blue color for a dollar more. It was ungodly hot, and the pants didn’t help. 

The Grand Palace is basically the National Museum, a huge conglomeration  of many structures: grand halls, forests of stupas, royal offices, giant bronze elephant statues, you name it. The former residence for Kings Rama I through V, now it’s a ceremonial residence only.  

Our main goal was finding Wat Phra Kaew—the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Between the heat and the crowds, my brain was having trouble comprehending the map. We finally found it. There was a group of people huddled in prayer near the opening. No one was allowed to enter. Disappointed we couldn’t see it up close, I got out my binoculars and got a pretty good view of it. Charlie zoomed in as much as possible with his iphone 12.

Me looking through binoculars at the Emerald Buddha. Others praying.

It’s quite small, 26 inches by 19 inches. There are a lot of legends surrounding the Emerald Buddha and its travels. Historically, it was believed to bring legitimacy and prosperity to those who possessed it. The actual history is murky at best. It was first discovered in Thailand in 1464. It was explained to me that each time the Emerald Buddha was moved to another country, the prior country was plagued with difficulties (unrest, war, colonization). 

Emerald Buddha in summer garb

Of all the Buddhas in Thailand (slender, fat, reclining, golden), it is the most important to the Thai people. Its costume, made of gold and jewelry, changes for each season (summer, rainy season, and winter).

There was stunning art everywhere. Also, a scale model of Angkor Wat, the temple complex in Cambodia that is still on our bucket list.

Small scale model of Angkor Wat

The sweltering heat finally got to Charlie. He took off the long pants. The guards at the small museum would not allow him to enter. I went anyway and it was blessedly air conditioned. The displays mainly showed how the site was renovated over its 600+ years. 

Not too many people went upstairs, but I did. In a far corner, there was an office with a desk and artifacts on shelves. It was locked, with iron bars, so I peered in. In the dim light I could make out a shelf with 2 Emerald Buddha statues with an empty spot for a 3rd. They were dressed in different costumes. My theory is the original Emerald Buddha is somewhere in a locked vault and the one in the Temple is a reproduction. My own fanciful thinking, of course.

Walking out of the museum was like walking into an oven. A guard was giving Charlie the evil eye for not wearing long pants. It was too darned hot. We started looking for the exit.

Back on the water taxi we stopped at a couple of places, finally in Bangkok’s Chinatown. Streets were lined with vendors. We looked around, then found a place to have lunch. It was air conditioned, the food was good, and the service was friendly. They were even willing to drop some postcards in the mail for us since we were running low on time before sail away. Rather than using transit back, we hailed a taxi. 

The driver dropped us off at the port gate. We spotted Don & Katherine Winter also arriving by taxi at the port gate. Together, we walked to the attendant booth to get a shuttle to our ship. No shuttle, the attendant said. We’d have to walk; it was about 20 minutes. We had previously been told it was absolutely forbidden to walk anywhere inside the port gates. We were close to heat stroke from sightseeing. After a lively discussion, Don convinced the attendant to find us a ride. It may have helped that Charlie was clowning around with his thumb out trying to hitch a ride from anything that came by. The attendant made a call. A car soon appeared and took us to our ship. We there before all-aboard time (4:30 pm), but not by much.

The ship sailed at 5:00 pm. We again sat on our veranda and watched the scenery go by. The moon was full and visible in the daylight. There was electricity in the air, with flashes of lightning occasionally visible in the clouds. Giant and not-so-giant structures framed the whole scene.

A cloud with lightning flashes

Scenery on the trip out of Bangkok

Full moon in the daylight.